Banning State Park, MN

Entry #2:  Banning State Park, MN

STATE PARK WEBSITE

Trip Details:

Date:      Saturday May 16th-Sunday May 17th.

Drive:    1 hour 30 Minutes N of Minneapolis.  

Rating:  High.  

Top Reason To GO:
Hike the sandstone Kettle River gorge witnessing the thundering whitewater--more of a North Shore or Colorado type feeling--all a 90 minute drive from Minneapolis.  

Do Not Miss:  
Hike along Kettle River-Boat Ramp to Quarry Trail Loop and return (optional Hell's Gate Trail extension).

Fun for Kids?
Yes and No.  YES if your family likes to explore and/or enjoy a campsite or a picnic by a river.  NO if what your family is looking for a structured recreational experience--swimming beach, playground, interpretive center, etc.

Brad's Quick Take:

Often when I reference Banning to friends--the answer (even to outdoorsy friends) typically is "Where's that at again?"  My reply--about 15 minutes north of Hinckley just east of I-35.  In my opinion, Banning is the most remarkable outdoor experience within 90 minutes of Minneapolis--hands down--no contest/no runner up. It's just at a higher sensory level than all other meandering rivers/streams south of Duluth or open prairies/lakes.  That said--if you don't know where to look, you may miss the "wow" spots along the Kettle I'm talking about.

Inside the Park, the Kettle River narrows into a deep gorge creating an unmistakable whitewater sound that fills much of the Park.  Within the Park you'll experience historic quarry remnants from the 1880s, pockets of white and red pine stands amongst a mixed hardwood forest, kayakers shooting the rapids, an array of birds/plants including a cool area of large Skunk Cabbage by the Boat Ramp, a waterfall, and rock outcroppings that overhanging the Kettle--perfect to sit and reflect alone or enjoy with company.  While a great place to camp, Banning is also a good half day road out and back road trip from the Cities.

NOTE:  If you have children who do not listen well--this is not the park for you.  If your son or daughter falls into the Kettle River off a cliff at high water levels and is not a good swimmer--the result maybe CPR, not a time out.

Park History

The Park was named after Banning, an abandoned townsite inside the Park dating back to the 1880s. The Banning townsite was named after William L. Banning, the president of the St. Paul and Duluth Railroad that serviced the sandstone quarry.  Many names of the rapids (Hell's Gate) and trails (Deadman Trail) revert back to when loggers in the 1800s floated old growth logs perilously into this difficult section on their way to the St. Croix--many losing their lives.

Banning State Park was established in 1963 with multiple subsequent expansions increasing its size to 6,237 acres.  Credit for the Park dates back to 1959 and the Pine County Historical Society's interest to protect the old town of Banning.

Now the Kettle River that flows through the Park is a designated Minnesota Wild and Scenic River. Why does this matter?  Well a Kettle River Management Plan and State Rules cover this specific segment of the Kettle so it will look and feel the same for your grandkids--sound good?

Camp Site Experience:

Camp Site:  33.  Campground Map. 

Camper Cabin:  YES.  One Cabin.  

Quiet Rating:  Average to Below Average.  Chorus of frogs in May, occasional distant train, distant highway sounds that die off at night, distant neighbor property sounds that also die off at night.

Comments:  I've camped at Banning twice.  The campground is not large, but has full shower and water accommodations.  There are no cart in or hike in camp sites.  Sites 19. 21. 23. 25. 27, 29, 33, and 34 are best and don't back up to neighbors--with 33 and 34 ranked highest in my book (don't book them when I'm going--OK?).

TIPS:  

1)  Always double check if there are 1 or 2 tent pads on a given site.  I believe 33 has 2 and 34 has 1.  Some of these sites are raised 2' via woodchips off the forest floor due to seasonal water/moisture. The tent pad woodchips were dry to the touch.  The rest of the site was great, but damp dirt.    

2)  In May, the frogs can be very loud late into the night.  Exciting for some, but some loss of sleep for the sound sensitive type.

Best Picnic/Snack Spots:

Easy:  Teacher's Overlook--Picnic Tables Provided.  Easiest Access from Boat Launch Area.

Medium:  Hell's Gate Trail Rock outcroppings on Kettle just south of Quarry Loop Trail--Need Blanket--eat on rock/ground.

Hiking/Exploring:

An Incline to Teacher's Overlook
 from Quarry Loop Trail

Banning hikes range from upland bluff hikes with approximately 10' width of mowed grass to river walks that range from raised/dry former rail line to narrow almost bog like conditions.  If you show up with only sneakers, you may have to get your feet wet, turn back, or select only a dry hike.  Big picture, I'd recommend a waterproof hiking boot first and foremost if you intend to cover much ground--particularly if you are heading to the Wolf Creek Falls or one the Bluff top trails or the Skunk Cabbage Trail.  One would think the Bluff traverse trails would dry--but the thin soil to rock holds water, even when you'd expect them to be dry.

Banning Summer Hiking Map

Hike #1:  Campground to Boat Launch (and return).--Moderate to Difficult

Deadman Trailhead

This leisurely 1.5 to 2 hour loop hike begins at the Campground immediately off the loop before you exit.  You'll see a path and 2 immediate options--Deadman Trail or Wolf Creek Trail--Select Deadman Trail (don't worry, much scarier than reality) and head downhill.  At the first intersection a few minutes into the hike head left downhill towards the Quarry Loop Trail.  The second intersection is a few minutes later, head right towards the Hell's Gate Trail.  This section walks past 100' vertical rock outcroppings left from the old quarry.

At the third intersection, you have two options: head right downriver on the Hell's Gate Trail or head left upriver on the Quarry Loop Trail.  If you have extra time, I advise the Hell's Gate Trail spur--this section has some of the best spots to sit elevated right along the river to enjoy a snack, meditate/reflect, etc.  Feel free to stop/turn around and avoid the challenging section or the water crossing--I have never ventured through this section.

Once you head upriver through the Quarry Loop Trail-there is an interesting Self-Guided Trail (pamphlets at the Ranger Station) through the old Banning Quarry with building remnants.  This portion of the hike is flat along the old railroad line.

Skunk Cabbage

Kettle River at Boat Launch (before rapids)

Teacher's Overlook

After the quarry, the trail heads uphill along the Kettle until you reach the Teacher's Overlook.  Here, there are 2 picnic tables to enjoy the sounds high above the Kettle.  From here, you are a short 10-15 minute walk to the Boat Landing where you can walk down to the calm waters--just be careful as like any River there is a current downstream.    This is the endpoint of the hike but about 60% complete.  The area around the boat launch is typically full of skunk cabbage--a very cool plant in mid summer when the leaves are 2-3' in size.  We saw quite a bit already in mid May.  The "skunk cabbage trail" is another longer option that loops further up the Kettle.

Tributary to Kettle off Spur Trail

Trillium along Spur Trail

Now heading back to the campground, walk up from the water up the road to the intersection with the boat landing parking and head left--you'll see another map there for reference on how to walk back to the Spur Trail.  While most of the bang for the buck is the Kettle and the rapids, there are some cool features along the trail back that takes the ridgeline and then heads towards the campsite on the Spur Trail.  Once at the Teacher's overlook, walk inland a few hundred meters and take a left.   Stay up on the bluff and look for signs to the "Spur Trail."  In short, you are bypassing the quarry and hiking back directly to the campground.  Along this route, you'll see small tributaries to the Kettle, wildflowers, and may have to navigate wet areas of the trail--most of the Park contains very shallow soils above bedrock.

Hike #2:  Campground to Wolf Creek Falls--Moderate to Difficult

This roughly 2.0 mile out and back trail takes you along the top of the bluff direct from the Campground to Wolf Creek Falls.  The Falls is nice, but not breathtaking.  This falls in most State Parks south of Duluth would be the main feature.  Here, the Kettle River rapids take center stage--thus Wolf Creek Falls should be your second or optional hike.  This section can be more wet than most and require waterproof hiking boots. Depending on the season and the rain--you'll know soon if you have to turn around. It is best to try the hike as a loop taking High Bluff Trail out and Wolf Creek Trail back.   Start out on Deadman Trail and immediately turn right onto the High Bluff Trail.  You'll stay on this trail for .6 miles until the intersection with the Wolf Creek Trail.  Turn left to Wolf Creek Falls.  From here the path ventures down and will require some coordination to navigate the rocks.  There are a few different poorly signed viewing points of the falls with access depending on the water level.  Just look around, enjoy it and turn back when you are ready.  The falls is nice, but not 

Arrival Last Minute Needs:

Local Groceries:  Chris' Food Center (Sandstone--15 minutes)

Local Beverages: Finlayson Municipal Liquor (Finlayson 15 minutes)

NOTE:  Banning is the Askov/Finlayson exit--there is only gas with basic drinks/snacks.  I advise pack/prep food at home, drive straight to Banning for a camp meal and skip the traffic/fast food chaos of the Hinkley exit.

Adjacent Parks/Activities to Link:

Moose Lake State Park    State Park with Swimming Beach.  20 Miles North via I-35.
Willard Munger Trail       Paved State Bike Trail.  Access in Finlayson--15 minutes West off 15.

Forestville & Mystery Cave State Park, MN

Entry #1:  Forestville and Mystery Cave State Park, MN 

Trip Details:

Date:  May 2nd, 2015.  One overnight.
Drive Time: 2 Hour 15 Minute Drive SE of Minneapolis.
Overall Rating: High.  Good hiking trail along South Branch Root River and unique features not found anywhere else in the State.
Do Not Miss: Mystery Cave (geology, hydrology, bats, etc.) and Big Spring (river appears/daylights flowing out of 100' rock wall).

Summary Narrative: 
I selected Forestville and Mystery Cave State Park for two reasons:  1) I had never been to this park before and 2) my good friends, Mike and Patrick Sande, were trout fishing and camping.  I set off with out a lot of research and low expectations.  I left the Park with a great overall experience.  The Park is best broken down into two days OR one very long day.  With small children, I'd recommend breaking the visit up into 1)  Mystery Cave tour and 2) Forestville hiking/exploring.  Mystery Cave is about a 7 minute drive from the main Forestville Park located outside the main Forestville Park. Both have their own Visitor Centers.  The campground and hiking is located at Forestville.  Cave tours can be reserved online in 1 hour increments.  I reserved ahead of time--in May there was plenty of walk up availability--but this may not be the case on summer weekends.  Campsites can be reserved via the main DNR Reservation Site.  Trout fisherman already know of this Park or should know about the South Branch of the Root River.

Arrival Last Minute Needs: 

Local Groceries:  Sunshine Foods in Spring Valley.
Local Adult Beverages:  TJ's Liquor in Spring Valley.
Road Trip Fun Stop:  A&W in Spring Valley.

Camp Site Experience:

Camp Site #;  A21.  Campground Map
Camp Site Comments:  We elected to camp next to our friends, not for the best site.  Nice topography difference from neighbors, but headlights shine in camp when cars exit.  This was not our original selection.  A21 is not reservable online.
Camp Site Good Reservable Options:  A4, A6, A7, A25, A26
Camper Cabins Available:  YES.  See Campground Map including Camper Cabins HERE.
Hike In/Cart In:  Sadly NO.

Hiking/Exploring:

First, I'd classify myself as an advanced hiker with ability to hike long distances, including a heavy backpack.  This blog will generally be written through the lens of someone who views multiple hour hikes as the norm.  That said, I will do my best to help those newer to hikes better understand the likelihood that they can also complete/attempt certain hikes.  Asa and I ventured out on two different hikes--both I believe are requirements on any trip to Forestville. 

HIKE #1:  Campground A to Forestville & Return 2.5 Miles

The first hike we selected was from the campgrounds along the river to the abandoned town of Forestville and back.  We set off from the "A" campground trail along the River next to the A4 campsite.  We first set up camp around 6 PM then set off on this flat hike and made it back no problem around 8 on a leisure walk pace.  We hiked north for about 1/3 mile and found the forest floor covered with wildflowers in early May.  We heard owls, woodpeckers, and the rush of River.  A very busy beaver has had his way with many trees in this area.

We crossed the River on on the main road bridge then take a left into the parking lot and hike along the east bank the River until we arrived at the old Bridge and Forestville. This route is poorly signed with many criss cross paths likely created by fisherman.  It's probably about 2.5 miles roundtrip and very flat.   If you only have 3-4 hours and want a great experience, I'd select Hike #2 below instead.  If you have time for both, they are both worth doing.  The historic town and bridge are nice, but the Big Spring is stunning and not worth missing if time is short.  

HIKE #2:  Amphitheater/Angler Parking to Big Spring & Return 4.0 Miles

Big Spring

Big Spring Trail & White Pines

You can walk from any of the campgrounds to set out on this hike--but you also can save some time and drive to the "Angler Parking" or the Amphitheater Parking closer to the trail head which is across the street from the marked "Angler Parking."  You share the trail with horses, and cross Canfield Creek a few times before the final arrival at the "Big Spring." Seeing the creek sourced from a hole in a rock wall was an amazing site to see.  Definitely one of those--'Ah hah" moments where the hike/journey is nice, but the destination makes it.  

The Big Spring hike is tough on small children simply due to the length--I had to use my backpack for my 3 year old a few times.  This trail is also shared with horses for an added experience.  We passed 3 separate horse trail riding groups on a Sunday early afternoon.   Pack snacks/sandwiches, extra water, rain gear, and extra toddler clothes for accidents.

Mystery Cave

Mystery Cave Visitor Center

Cave Walls

Example of metal grates

Mystery Cave is way more than a tourist trap and worth the trip even for people who cannot stand to be in a tour.  The 1 hour hike departed from a new welcome center with restrooms and a small gift shop.  You must drive to this separate park--about 5-7 minutes from the Forestville entrance.  Tours typically leave on the hour and you can reserve online ahead of time--as we did.  The tour guide shared a wealth of information on the area's hydrology, geology, and history.  It was amazing to see fossil imprints on the cave walls and ceilings from when the area was the bottom of a shallow sea, still visible in the cave.  Bats were also visible hanging inside the cave.  I'd recommend wearing long pants and a jacket, even in the middle of a hot summer--especially for young children.  My 3 year old slipped on a wet iron grate covering an opening under the path and tore his knee open.  He probably could have avoided this had I made him wear pants despite the warm weather outside.     

Water Pool lit from inside

Brad's Final Take:

Forestville and Mystery Cave State Park is worth the 2+ hour drive from Minneapolis or the Twin Cities, even for an overnight, but preferably a 2 night stay.  There is a little for everyone--fly fishing for trout, good distance hikes, 19th Century history, geology/hydrology, wild flowers, bird viewing, plus the cave--unlike any other State Park in Minnesota.

North Branch Root River at Night

Asa in our old North Face Nebula Tent